Forums Niryo One Showcase your Niryo One project Assembly experience RE: Niryo One v2.0 robot


Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • Author
  • duck
    Post count: 49

    Hello everyone in the Niryo community,

    I would like to start a thread about assembly of the v2.0 robot both to share my experiences and to encourage others to share their experiences and offer advice to others who may be embarking on this adventure in the near future.

    For the time being, I have posted two 8-minute videos on YouTube with a short discussion of background and issues encountered during my recent assembly of a Niryo One v2.0 robot, followed by a time lapse of 8 hours of the assembly work condensed into 4 minutes.

    I will endeavor to post more detail here in the coming days. In the meantime, I would love to hear any comments and questions you might have. It would be great to hear from others who have already assembled a robot as well as those of you who have not yet done so.

    A big thanks to the great people at Niryo for their kind support.



    Post count: 17

    Great Video !!!


    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by wodcleaner.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by wodcleaner.
    Post count: 49

    Hello again everyone,

    Here are some more detailed notes about my experience assembling a Niryo One v2.0 robot. These notes are intended for several audiences: (1) people who might be interested in assembling a robot themselves (to give an idea of some of the challenges others have faced), (2) those of you who have already assembled a Niryo One robot (to give you an opportunity to share your own experiences whether they are similar or different from my own), and (3) to the staff of Niryo to help improve the assembly procedures and to make them easier for others.


    The diagrams in the assembly instructions in the Google Slides ESTIMATED that the five steps of the assembly procedure should take about 4 hours. The ACTUAL time that it took me to follow the five steps, not including preparation and review of parts before actual assembly, was closer to 8 hours. Maybe I’m a slow poke!

    Here’s a detailed breakdown:

    STEP 1 — Assembling the Base; ESTIMATED: 40 MIN; ACTUAL: 100 MIN
    STEP 2 — Assembling the Shoulder; ESTIMATED: 60 MIN; ACTUAL: 90 MIN
    STEP 3 — Assembling the Elbow; ESTIMATED: 60 MIN; ACTUAL: 120 MIN
    STEP 4 — Assembling the Wrist; ESTIMATED: 40 MIN; ACTUAL: 65 MIN
    STEP 5 — Assembling the Drawer and Final Steps; ESTIMATED: 40 MIN; ACTUAL: 65 MIN

    Building a robot is a bit like climbing a mountain. That’s partly why I’ve named the robots that I have after mountains in the area where I live that I have climbed. Let me use this analogy a bit more to provide some concrete recommendations:

    1. Take your time. Don’t rush.
    2. Preparation is key. Watch the video for a step in its entirety before you commence the assembly work on that step. Lay out only the parts that you will need for that step on the table before starting.
    3. Aim to complete each of the five steps in a single day. Sometimes it may not be possible to complete a step in a day. Don’t worry, that’s fine, but it’s better not to be overly ambitious. I would recommend avoiding trying to complete two or more steps on the same day even if you feel like you are on a roll. I tried to complete the last two steps in a single day. When I encountered a simple problem with the 3D printed parts in the base in Step 5, I was too tired to effectively resolve it and had to leave the finishing touches for another day.
    4. Make sure to get ample rest along the way. Drink fluids, make sure that you are physically comfortable.
    5. Consider the unboxing activity as the first step to tackle. Clear a table and lay all the components out sorted by category (electrical, mechanical, 3D printed parts, etc.). Compare what you have received with the components in the full detailed BOM on Google Drive. In my case, there were several missing and damaged components, but the staff at Niryo was very kind to send them to me promptly and it didn’t end up delaying the assembly, because I was able to start and the missing parts arrived just when I needed them.
    6. Post photos and questions here on the forums in the troubleshooting section if you get stuck. The chances are high that someone else faced the same issue in their assembly work and would be happy to offer suggestions; it might take a few hours or even a day or two though for someone to see your post, so be patient and try to make your post as soon as possible after you encounter a problem to allow for enough time for people to respond.
    7. You will need some basic tools and supplies in addition to the tools included in the kit. For example you will need a little bit of all-purpose grease (as used for bicycles and automobiles). You’ll also need some pliers, wire cutters, sand paper or files, normal screwdrivers, etc. I’ve posted a photo in the Google Drive directory mentioned below at the bottom of this post showing the extra tools I made use of during the assembly.


    The Niryo One is the first useful object or machine that I have personally encountered that is made out of 3D-printed parts. I live in an area that has many factories that produce the factory machinery to make injected plastic parts and, in general, 3D printing tends not to be particularly well regarded in my area. I have also worked on projects in this industry many years and perhaps some of the bias against 3D printing has rubbed off on me, but Niryo One is definitely changing my opinion.

    That said, I am somewhat persnickety about PLA threads that droop down on overhanging surfaces and prevent easy insertion of screws and mating with other parts.

    I would recommend that people do an initial careful inspection of the 3D-printed parts that they have received (or printed themselves) and remove any glaring artifacts. Some examples and additional detail.

    1. Small threads around the fan mount inside the base caused a lot of noise on my first robot; it sounded like a lawn mower! Cutting them away made things very quiet.
    2. When I was assembling the second robot (v2.0), I was confronted with a problem in Step 5 where the Drawer wouldn’t close without bulging— you can see that the Drawer isn’t completely closed at the end of Step 5 of my video; there is also a photo in the Google Drive. I ended up having to file around the semicircles on the blue PLA of the base where the black Air Routing parts are inserted on the side in order to get the Air Routing parts to insert properly and for the rail on which the Drawer sits to slide smoothly.
    3. I almost wish that I had the foresight to install the Air Routing parts and test sliding of the empty Drawer before completing Step 1 because it would have been alot easier to work with these parts before the full weight of all the parts of the arm had been assembled, but I understand why Niryo may have preferred to suggest that the Air Routing parts only be installed in Step 5.
    4. Sometimes the PLA threads don’t cause any problem and I’m fining leaving them. In many cases taking them away might lead to more problems than leaving them be would cause. Once you remove one layer sometimes you find what’s underneath is worse, so I would recommend to take a cautious and conservative approach to the removal of these artifacts. I find the threads on the overhang which form the flat top of the Base asthetically pleasing but they are in fact loose (not completely integrated into the structure of the base). On the other hand, they don’t cause any mechanical or structural problems and the texture that they create is a fun aspect of the design of the robot.

    I have taken some photos of the parts that I received, the extra tools that I used, some of the 3D printing defects that I encountered and some other aspects of the assembly process. You can view them here.

    I am going to stop here because this post is already too long, but I will endeavor to post some more notes as questions and queries for Niryo about some issues that I encountered during the assembly process.

    Please feel free to post comments in this thread with your own experiences and/or any questions you might have.

    Post count: 49

    Here is a short video that I made of the first power up attempt. As you can see in the video, there were no sparks, but I did encounter an issue with the connection to the Axis 3 motor on the CAN bus, so I will attempt to diagnose the issue and update you all again soon.

    Post count: 26

    @duck  Thanks for sharing your photos and assembly video for the Niryo One v2 robot. I had a very similar building experience with my recent version 2 robot assembly. My kit was missing the exact same parts (aluminum tubes, toggle switch, and power wire) and Niryo promptly shipped out replacements.

    When I first powered up and tested the robot, I was having motor connection errors and I found that the black plug connectors on the wiring harness were not making good connection.  Some of the wires for the pins were not seated fully in the connector.  Once I pressed the pins and sockets further into the connectors, the motor connection error went away.

    Looking forward to more videos once you get the robot working

    Good luck.

    Post count: 49

    Hello again everyone!

    Here is a video about my final push to get the v2.0 robot working:

    Thank you, @BCanMan, for your encouragement and for sharing your experience. Your comments helped me to take the necessary steps to get the robot working. Thank you also to Mark-Henri and Edouard at Niryo for your prompt and courteous support.

    In terms of the missing parts and experience with Niryo shipping out what was missing, it sounds like we had identical experiences. In the case of my robot, one of the wires in the 4-pin Molex connector that is inside the aluminum tube between the Shoulder and the Elbow had come out of the pin.

    I did some searches on google and YouTube and tried various suggested ways of getting the pin out so I could reconnect the wire to no avail. Rather than go down the path of investing in a proper depinning tool and other Molex parts for replacement, I decided to make a more expedient temporary fix by running a new wire from the JST connector on the Axis 3 stepper motor housing to the wire that had come undone.

    I hope to make a more permanent solution in the future since my temporary fix means that it is not as easy to detach the Shoulder and Elbow for disassembly and repair which is one of the beauties of the work that Niryo did in the upgrade between the v1.x and v2.0 robots (the v1.x robots, I believe, had a single wire harness without the Molex connectors.

    I certainly welcome comments, questions and ideas from everyone.

    Post count: 49

    Hello everyone,

    I would like to provide some additional information regarding my recent assembly of a Niryo One v2.0 robot.

    The comments, questions and observations below are intended for the staff at Niryo, however I thought it might be beneficial to post them on the forums to see if they might stimulate additional advice from others who have assembled a Niryo One robot, as well as to serve as reference to those of you who may considering assembly of a robot in the future.


    (1) XL-430 Servo Motor for Axis 4: Is it ok to run wires through center or is there a particular reason why the video shows the wires being run from one side? I found it difficult given the length of the wires I was supplied.

    Axis 4 motor cables

    (2) The 3-conductor cable that connects to XL-430 Motor Axis 5 in the v2.0 robot kit that I received did not include the Spiral Wire Wrap Tube around the end of the cable that was shown in the assembly video for Step 4. The three wires in this cable are very thin gauge and might be susceptible to damage during normal operation. Did Niryo decide that the protective covering was unnecessary? Is it advisable to cover these wires to prevent damage?

    (3) Would AWG #20 gauge wires be better as replacement for the two AWG #18 gauge wires in the CAN bus in terms of providing a more secure connection and supporting the voltage/amperage requirements of the stepper motors?

    I love the addition of the Molex connectors in the main cable harness in terms of easing disassembly and repair of the robot compared to the single cable harness without any intermediate connectors, but I discovered a continuity problem arising from the addition of these connectors that appears to demonstrate a basic issue regarding the gauge of wires being used for the CAN bus.

    Two of the four wires in the CAN bus appear to be a thicker AWG #18 gauge. If AWG #18 gauge wire is required to drive the voltage and amperage requirements of the stepper motors that are connected to the CAN bus, it may be advisable to consider alternative replacements for both the Molex and JST connectors.

    In my review of the specifications of both the JST XHP-4 and Molex Micro-Fit 43025 series connectors used in the CAN bus of the Niryo One v2.0 robot neither of these connectors support AWG #18 gauge wire. The upper limit for the Molex connector is AWG #20 and the JST XH connectors are only rated for AWS #22. The problem seems to be that it is very difficult to secure a thicker gauge wire to the pins even if one were using the manufacturer’s specialized tool. It might be possible for Niryo to solder the wires to the pins to add strength and assure connectivity, but these connectors were not necessarily built with higher amperage and thicker wires/insulation in mind.

    In the case of the 2.0 robot that I assembled, I found that one of the wires had come detached from the female socket of the Molex connector and it was impossible to remove the socket using available tools, so I decided to devise an expedient (albeit not ideal) workaround by running a new wire from one of the pins on the JST connector.

    Debug Axis 3 motor connection 1

    Debug Axis 3 motor connection 2

    I discovered that it wasn’t possible to insert into the JST connector an AWG #18 gauge wire because the insulation of the wire that I had was a bit thicker than what Niryo had used and I didn’t have any wire with thinner insulation available. I ended up running an AWG #20 gauge wire to the JST XHP-4 connector and crimping the detached wire directly to this new wire inside the aluminum tube between the Elbow and Shoulder. This defeats the beauty of being able to detach the Molex connectors for disassembly and repair, but it works for now.

    I will consider in the future whether I should purchase a depinning tool so I can take the socket that detached from the wire out of the Molex connector and use the connector instead of my rather crude workaround.

    (4) How are the Gripper tools supposed to be electrically connected to the XL-320 bus? I had this dilemma months ago when I setup a Niryo One v1.x robot and ended up removing the three-conductor 12cm cable from Gripper 2, using male Break Away Headers to mate it with the female connector on the 12cm cable for Gripper 1 and connect the end to the open connector on the XL-320 for Axis 6.

    XL-320 Gripper tool cables

    A long (1-meter) 3-conductor cable (the cable with the dot marked ‘C’ in the photo below) is supplied with the kit, but I’m not sure that I fully understand it’s intended purpose. It appears to have a male JST RCY connector on one end and female JST RCY connector on the other.

    BOM electrical 3

    Is cable ‘C’ perhaps conceived as being used to run a tool from the XL-320 port on the back panel of the Drawer? I have connected the Vacuum Pump to this port on the back panel, but the 12cm cable is so short that the Vacuum Pump must be stood on one end in order to use it effectively and ends up toppling easily when the robot’s arm moves.

    If this cable is intended to be used to connect Grippers and other tools, then it would make more sense if both ends were male JST RCY connectors; then the user could use it to directly connect two 12cm cables from the tools. It appears with the present configuration (unless I’m missing something) that the user must supply his/her own male-to-male 3-conductor JST RCY connection or devise a workaround like the male Break Away Headers that I am using. I would very much appreciate any advice Niryo staff or others could provide about best usage.

    Are there perhaps other intended purposes for the 1-meter 3-conductor wire? How does Niryo advise that a user should connect the XL-320s on the Grippers and other tools to the robot?



    Key surfaces on several 3D parts may need some additional attention in terms of further refinement. Here are some specific examples:

    A. The interface surfaces between the Base, Drawer and Air Routing parts. I found that in Step 5 when it came time to slide the Drawer into the Base that there were considerable issues that prevented smooth insertion, sliding, and closing. It was quite difficult to address these problems at this late stage in the assembly process. Though I realize that it adds complexity and reduces elegance, it might be advisable to consider attaching the Air Routing parts to the base and testing the insertion of the Drawer in Step 1 in order to make it much easier to deal with any work required to correct these 3D-printed surfaces before the Base is already full attached to the Shoulder.

    B. The holes for the M8x90mm screws in the Arm Bottom and Elbow are very tight against these screws. I can appreciate that there might be issues if these holes were loose and movement was possible, but I wonder if it should be this difficult to insert the screws into these holes and whether the resulting friction during movement might cause later issues after extended operation of the robot.

    C. The surfaces inside the Arm Top where the stepper motor for Axis 3 is attached appear to be significantly refined from the v1.x robot. I discovered some very difficult areas inside the Arm Top when I was diagnosing and repairing some issues with a v1.x robot, so I am happy to see these welcome improvements in the v2.0 robot.

    D. I realize that the End Caps for Arm and the Elbow differ in that the former have slightly deeper collars that fit into the Shoulder but it is confusing to differentiate between which End Cap is intended for which location during the assembly process. These parts should probably either be made interchangeable (the same design) or should be marked somehow to make it more obvious which is intended for which location.

    E. I had trouble getting the Main Support of the Gripper 1 tool to fit well with the Hand. I ended up sanding the surfaces of the Main Support, but I wonder if there might be some ways to improve the interface of these surfaces to make it easier to switch tools in and out. I think that this is a nifty solution using 3D-printed materials to make a easily interchangeable structural connection, however bending the Hand to get the Main Support of the Gripper to mount troubles me (when I first attempted it, I was very worried about breaking the Hand and other parts of the robot).

    F. I appreciate the improvement that Niryo made to Gripper 1 between v1.x and v2.0 (on the left and right respectively in the photo below). The small steel bar (labeled “Steal”) on which the two Clamps slide is a nice improvement to the ease of movement and sturdiness of this tool.

    Gripper 1 v1.x lvs v2.0

    (2) SCREWS

    A diagram showing where the various types of screws go in each Step would be very useful. It’s especially difficult to ascertain whether a M3x10 or an M3x16 is being used in various sequences in the assembly videos. There are also several places in which M2 screws are used that one needs to be careful not to mistakenly use an M3 screw. I didn’t run into any problems with the screws related to the XL-430 motors but that was an area where I paid very close attention and some diagrams might also be useful.


    I noticed several places where parts used in the assembly videos where missing from the diagrams in the Google Slides.

    A. The End Cap (2x) for Elbow are missing from the diagram for Step 4 [1].

    B. The individual sections of CAN and XL cable harness that is needed for Steps 1-4 is not shown in the diagrams [1]. This should probably be much more carefully delineated since when the kit arrived they were all strung together in a single assembly with the various Molex connectors joined.

    CAN and XL cable harness

    C. The diagram for Step 5 shows that only one M3 Brake Nut is required when in fact 3 are used in the sequences shown in the video. [1]

    D. The number of M3x10mm and M3x16mm used in sequences in the video for Step 5 does not appear to exactly match what is called for in the diagram for Step 5. I found one M3x10mm screw and two M3x16mm screws remaining after I completed Step 5.

    E. The diagram for Gripper 1 appears to be missing M3x5mm (2x) screws needed to secure the XL-320 to the G1_MainSupport [2]. I tried using M3x8mm screws as shown on the diagram, but they are two long and end up obstructing full movement of the G1_ClampRight. I haven’t been able to find a good source online or locally for M3x5mm screws with hex heads. [2]

    [1] missing from diagram, but included in shipment.
    [2] missing from diagram and not included in shipment.

    F. There is only a single steel bar (labeled incorrectly as “Steal”, but should be “Steel”) on the assembly diagram but the diagram has two pieces listed.

    It may be advisable for Niryo to supply a small amount of spares for each of the various lengths of M3 screws, as well as the smaller Brake Nuts and Bearings. The Bearings should probably be packed separately from the screws and other parts in bubble wrap to prevent damage and confusion.

    The housing cover of the one Bearings that I received had become dented and another had become lodged inside the CouplingShaft for the BlueMotor and I didn’t discover it until I completed Step 4. As noted in my previous post, I am grateful to the staff at Niryo for promptly shipping me a replacement.

    damaged 6x19x6mm bearing


    I noticed that the v2.0 assembly videos no longer make use of a hammer (I recall several instances in the v1.0 videos where a hammer was used). The v2.0 videos do make use of a wrench in several places to fit Bearings and other parts into tight sockets on 3D-printed parts. This evolution reflects a certain refinement in the design of the Niryo One robot through this update. I hesitate to take a hammer to 3D printed parts because I am afraid of breaking them and know that it takes considerable time to reprint them.

    The 2.5mm ball end hex key that is included with the tools in the v2.0 robot kit is much easier to use than the standard hex key that I recall was used in the v1.x videos.

    I found that the kit included more tools than I needed; for example, it almost doesn’t seem necessary to include the Phillips head screwdriver and it wasn’t especially well suited to the screws for the servo motors and their couplings, so I used my own tools. It might be a good idea for Niryo to devise a video introduction of the installation process or some written instructions that alert people who order the kit that they need to prepare several tools and supplies.

    A. I didn’t have any grease on hand and didn’t see any general advice from Niryo about whether any particular type was required, so I purchased a small tub of all-purpose grease (essentially the grease that is commonly used for bicycles or automotive applications).

    B. A wrench should be used judiciously in inserting some of the tighter fitting bearings, etc. The user should be warned that 3D parts may be more fragile than they appear due the fact that they are not completely solid (the infill ratios used in printing the parts mean that there are empty spaces internally even with parts that appear completely solid).

    C. A set of Phillips head and flat-blade precision screwdrivers is in my mind a necessity. I found that the Phillips head screwdriver included with the kit was too big to use with some of the smaller screws (e.g. for mounting XL-320 and XL-430 motors and couplings). There are several places in the process where a thin flat-blade screwdriver is needed (e.g. holding the M4 Brake Nut while screwing the M4 screw that keeps the aluminum tube secured to the Arm Bottom in Step 2).

    D. A 1-1/2” putty knife and large flat-blade screwdriver in case removal of the torsion spring inside the Shoulder is necessary.

    E. Wire cutters or finger nail clippers, sand paper, nail files and other manual cutters and abrasives to refine surfaces of 3D printed parts. A small Phillips head screwdriver also came in useful to remove obstructions in some of the holes for screws. Canned air and wet towels are also useful for removing debris after refining surfaces.

    F. Needle nose pliers or tweezers to mount small screws and other parts more easily during assembly.

    G. Calipers and/or a metric ruler to measure parts (e.g. there are bearings of various sizes that are sometimes difficult to differentiate between; the length of M3 screws used in particular places in the assembly can also be confusing and bears careful examination by the user during the assembly process).

    extra tools that I used


    In Step 2, I would recommend changing the sequence order slightly. Greasing the Arm Bottom and Torsion Spring before affixing the belt on the Arm Bottom ended up meaning I got grease all over my hands and on the Belt, Arm Bottom, and other parts. I would suggest waiting until after the Belt is affixed to the Arm Bottom before applying grease.

    I am sorry that I made this post so long winded, but I hope that it will be of use to Niryo and to others and, as always, look forward to comments and questions from others.

    All of the photos shown above as well as several others and annotations related to my assembly of the v2.0 robot are available in this Google Drive directory. If you are logged into Google when you view the directory, you should be able to post comments and questions on particular details in the photos.

    Post count: 8

    @duck Thanks for sharing all these details in this thread.

    I have been following your YouTube channel for a bit now. I had some questions in the comments of one of your videos, you had promptly replied to me and was a great help. Your Niryo robot videos are what prompted me to buy and build one myself.

    Wish I seen this thread before I went ahead and created one on my forums. I was unaware until today that these forums existed. I am looking forward to seeing more of your videos and posts.

    Post count: 49

    @roboticshobbyist Thank you for your kind note. It’s great to see that you have gotten your maker’s kit assembled and working.

    I’d love to hear your feedback about issues that you faced during your assembly work.

    I’m sorry if I didn’t more clearly steer you toward and other users to the forums from my YouTube videos– that was definitely my intention in replying to many technical comments that I received there, but perhaps I should endeavor to highlight the forums with more vigor there in the future.

    I look forward to seeing and hearing more about your robotics adventures.

    Post count: 8

    So, for the past couple days, I have been troubleshooting why I couldn’t connect to the robot.

    It turns out the SD Card image provided will not function as is on a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. I removed the Raspberry 3 B+ and installed a Raspberry 3 B.

    After that my network could see the Robot but I still could not connect. This was a result of me blocking all inbound connections via my firewall. It needs to be able to connect at least one time without the firewall and then it will function with the firewall. Another option is to create a firewall rule for the IP and Port.

    I am now able to connect to the robot. I am having one calibration issue that I am working through. It appears to be an assembly issue that I believe is an easy fix. I hope to have the calibration complete any moment now.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.